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1945 - Looking south over PB to Mission Bay Park, Mission Boulevard is curvy street on the right side of photograph that leads to Ocean Beach and Pt. Loma.
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The hip, relaxed community of Pacific Beach boasts 40,000 residents and 1,200 businesses. But more than 100 years ago we were but a sleepy, plot of dirt located next to the Pacific Ocean.
Oh, if investors only knew what was coming.
Sit back and get comfortable while you read about our little beachside community that believed in itself and grew to become one of the most popular places to live, work and visit.
PACIFIC BEACH.LOOKING BACK
By Eve Smull, Beach and Bay Press
"Pacific Beach Is Offered To Investors For The First Time!"
- 1887 - Golden Era magazine touted the glories of our all-but-vacant land just north of False Bay, extolling PB's "magnificent beach, unsurpassed in California and the bay for yachting, fishing and duck-shooting." The Pacific Beach Company offered its first 25' x 125' lots on December 12, 1887. The land boom extended to neighborhoods throughout the San Diego area. Others who celebrate 1887 as their founding year include Ocean Beach, La Jolla and Coronado.
- January - 1888 - The San Diego College of Letters laid its cornerstone in formal ceremonies. (The site of Pacific Plaza II today.)
- March -1888 - The Pacific Beach Weekly Newspaper was first published. It survived one year. The PB Community Church (now PB Presbyerian Church) rose on the corner of Garnet and Jewell.
- April - 1888 - The San Diego and Old Town Railway was extended to PB. Round trip fare from downtown to the beach was 25 cents and took just 30 minutes one-way.
- May, 1888 - The American Driving Park (racetrack) opened, complete with a grandstand, stables and clubhouse. Wyatt Earp raced his horses there.
In the summer of '88, world-famous poet Rose Hartwick Thorpe arrived to lend prestige to the "college town." She wrote a poem about our bay-then know as "False Bay"-renaming it forever, "Mission Bay." Meanwhile, buyers continued to invest in vacant lots.
PB's boom was short-lived, however. The Depression of the 1890's saw the collapse of The San Diego College of Letters. Land sales quickly halted as people lost their properties and moved away.
Instead, a "sea of lemon trees" sprouted, as the remaining families turned to farming. Alas, at the turn of the century, lemons from Sicily began to arrive on the East Coast, ending our brief fame as "the Lemon Capitol of the World."
Meanwhile, O.W. Cotton, of the Folsom brothers Realty, was still hawking land. In 1904, the realtors turned the former college into the Hotel Balboa, using it to woo prospective clients.
Gingerbread houses began to sprout here and there across two square miles. PB would continue to retain it's semi-rural, seaside flavor until the beginning of World War II.
Just $25 A Lot!
During PBs Centennial Celebration in 1987, interviews with older residents included Lenore Carroll. Recalled Lenore, who came to PB in 1904, "Grandma wanted a home, so for $25 a lot, she bought two lots on Shasta Street from Folsom Brothers Real Estate firm. We lived in a tent then, no water, no electricity-no nothing!"
"Braemar," the F.T. Scripps' Estate
The large estate in Sail Bay's northwest corner often hosted local meetings. Its dining room welcomed the PB Women's Club before its clubhouse, Hornblend Hall, was built in 1912. That dining room later became the Catamaran Hotel's Wedding Chapel when Braemar was torn down to make way for the hotel in 1959.
In October 1987, the chapel was moved to Garnet Avenue at the foot of Soledad Mountain Road. Renamed "Rose Creek Cottage" it was preserved and restored by PB Town Council members and volunteers.
Crystal Pier-A Landmark Since 1927
Earl Taylor, a Kansas native, arrived in PB in 1923. He purchased and developed many parcels of land in the business district, within several blocks of the ocean.
1948 - Crystal Pier, Garnet Avenue & Ocean Boulevard
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Dunaway's Drugstore was one of the first. It has been recreated in a popular wall mural on the southwest corner of Cass and Garnet. Kathleen King, a PB native, and her partner Paul Naton, were commissioned to paint the historic scene during PB's 1987 Centennial Year.
Crystal Pier-brainchild of developer Taylor-was built to entice visitors to the glory of beach living. It was dubbed "Pickering's Pleasure Pier," but builder Earnest Pickering's precarious finances caused Earl Taylor to turn the project overt to Neil Nettleship and Ben Tye.
The Pier received its grand opening at last on July 4th, 1927, complete with a midway, and its much-heralded, cork-lined dance floor. Unfortunately for local dancers, uncreosoted pilings allowed marine borers to nibble the pilings from below, closing Crystal Pier for repairs.
After 10 years of financial hardship that paralleled the Great Depression, the Pier reopened. This time, the midway was gone and 10 motel cottages had been added, along with promenade decks.
A severe winter storm on January 27, 1983 tore away 240 feet of the Pier. In 1987, The City replaced the lost section, adding a sturdier, raised and widened fishing deck.
The College Of Letters
In the center of Pacific Beach, the San Diego College of Letters opened its doors in 1889. It became the Hotel Balboa in 1904, then morphed into the San Diego Army-Navy Academy in 1910. Referring to itself as the "West Point of the West," the facility once boasted 500 students, most of who lived on campus.
Once again, the school at Garnet and Lamont changed hands. Brown Military Academy was its final occupant, remaining until the site was razed in 1958 to make way for Pacific Plaza shopping center. A portion of this same area was rebuilt as Plaza II in 1989.
Kate Sessions, PBs Most Honored Gardner
Kate O. Sessions, the "mother of Balboa Park," purchased land for a nursery down on Garnet Avenue at Soledad Mountain Road. Miss Sessions, who had spent a lifetime gathering seeds and specimens collected from her trips around the world, moved to Pacific Beach in 1914.
Recalls Earl Taylor's son, Vernon Taylor, "My newspaper route included Kate Sessions Nursery. She was an old woman by then," he said. "She wore long skits with big pockets in them and heavy work boots." The City of San Diego had begun to blossom with the trees and shrubs Kate planted throughout Hillcrest, Mission Hills and other City neighborhoods, in addition to her vast plantings in Balboa Park.
Her big white house remains on Los Altos Road, along with several gardener's cottages, which are tucked behind later developments. Many gardens in the Los Altos area display shrubs and vines she planted, a legacy for us to enjoy.
Kate Sessions Nursery site is marked by a huge Tipuana tree and an historical marker at Garnet and Soledad Mountain Road-directly across the street from another PB landmark, Rose Creek Cottage.
Mission Bay's Mud Flats
1940 - Sail Bay in Pacific Beach, Frank H. Cooper Jr. flying a Ryan ST
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PBs southern boundary was formed by the mud flats of Mission Bay. At high tide, residents could row across; at low tide, they could practically walk to what is now the Sea World Adventure Park.
In 1942, World War II brought thousands of people to sleepy San Diego, helping to build the planes and equipment needed in the war effort. All national and local resources were directed to that goal.
After the war, in 1945, attention turned back to Mission Bay. Under the guidance of City Planning Director Glenn Rick, a $2 million bond issue was passed to dredge and improve the bay. The goal was to provide recreation-and jobs-for the growing population.
First though, the bridge from Mission Beach to Ocean Beach, built in 1931, had to be torn down. Engineers needed to construct the flood control channel and an entrance to the bay for power cruisers and sailboats.
During this time, the years following World War II brought tremendous growth to the entire city of San Diego. Many servicemen stationed here decided to remain. Thousands of small cottages in the flat areas of PB were rapidly constructed in those years to house some of the influx.
From Vernon Taylor's memories of just two paved streets during the early '20s-Cass and Garnet-PB continued to progress steadily. His father, Earl, subsequently purchased parcels along Garnet and Mission Boulevard, paving streets nearby and constructing sidewalks.
The population, around 500 hearty souls in 1920, grew sufficiently to warrant a new elementary school at Ingraham and Emerald in 1922. PB Junior High opened in 1930 at 1234 Tourmaline (PB Elementary today), followed by PB's first Fire Station in 1934.
Three Navy housing developments were created during the war years: Bayview Terrace, Los Altos, and Cyanne, down on Crown Point. The Roxy Theater became PB's first movie house in '43, while Bayview Terrace and Crown Point Elementary Schools opened to accommodate the war babies.
By 1950, the population of Pacific Beach reached 30,000 and the average home sold for $12,000. A neighborhood fund drive to build a local library convinced the City to multiply the collection, thus constructing our PB Library at Ingraham and Felspar.
In 1953, the community finally had its own high school, when Mission Bay High opened its doors. Until then, students attended La Jolla High or Point Loma High. Kate Sessions Elementary opened in 1956.
1947 - Looking northeast over Mission Bay Park towards Crown Point. Can you spot the Giant Dipper roller coaster in Belmont Park? The Giant Dipper was built in 1925.
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Mission Bay, An Aquatic Park
Meanwhile, dredging to form the new outline of Mission Bay was completed. Hotels like the Catamaran were sprouting on new points of land. Sea World first brought its marine shows to San Diego in 1964, thus ensuring the popularity of Mission Bay Park.
By 1970, a surge of planned, high-rise constructions was upsetting beach residents, who were fearful of "another Miami Beach." A citizen-sponsored, 30' height-limitation, "Proposition D," won at the polls in 1972. Also passed, with much controversy at the time, was a down-zoning of 500 acres in the center of PB. (If Pacific Beach had been built to densities allowed under the original PB-Mission Beach Community Plan, 60,000-80,000 residents would have been accommodated.)
The "Go-Go" 80's
During the "go-go" 1980's, tax dollars were available for a large number of public projects that had long awaited funding. In addition, dozens of developers poured private money into the beach area for both commercial and residential construction.
The Promenade shopping center was built on Mission Boulevard at PB Drive, Sea Coast Square was constructed at Garnet and Mission Blvd. Innovative new restaurants and nightspots heralded the arrival of tourists (and Locals!) with disposable dollars.
Fantasy was part of the theme of the '80's, as "Camelot's Castle" rose out of sand on the beach at the end of Felspar. Hundreds of people sculpted and packed sand over the Labor Day weekend in 1984; the 29'5' sandcastle set a new world's record. "Sleeping Beauty's Castle" topped out at 40' the following year, enchanting youngsters of all ages.
PB's Centennial Year, 1987, coincided with the completion of many of those public projects. In addition to Crystal Pier's 240-foot replacement, Phase II of Ocean Boulevard's Pacific Beach Park debuted that June.
The Mission Bay Channel Bridge replacement on Ingraham opened in September '87, while Sail Bay's freshly-widened beach and Fanuel Street Park were dedicated in December of that "grand-opening" filled year.
New Library For PB
Farnum Elementary School, closed by the San Diego Unified School District in the '80s, was slated for development for apartments under a 99-year lease. It became the object of a citizens' lawsuit in 1986.
That lawsuit, requesting public input on the site (as required by law), allowed time for negotiations between the School District and the City of San Diego.
On November 23, 1987, as a fitting cap to PB's centennial year, the City purchased Farnum for a much-needed, new Pacific Beach library and park.
Thanks to a donation of $3.75 million by PB developer Vernon Taylor and his wife Mary, the 3.09-acre site is now home to a magnificent 12,000-square-foot library designed by architect Manuel Oncina.
1947 - Ingraham Street & La Playa Avenue, the original Crest Liquor
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Looking Ahead.
Planning ahead has been the mandate for the 1990's. Community leaders from many areas pushed for renovations and new programs at the PB Recreation Center. The once worn-down facility today boasts fresh paint and fixtures, along with higher usage.
The PB Planning Committee spent several years updating the 1983 Pacific Beach Community Plan. Traffic flow, view corridors, street landscaping and retaining PB's community flavor are highlighted.
Making It Happen
Discover Pacific Beach, the business improvement association; the Pacific Beach Planning Committee; and the Pacific Beach Town Council are the three volunteer organizations principally responsible for bringing community projects to life.
The mission of Discover Pacific Beach is, "to revitalize and promote the Pacific Beach community." Discover Pacific Beach hosts events to enhance the ambiance of the oceanfront area; their PB Restaurant Walks showcase local restaurants. For more special event details click Special Events Calendar on this website. Colorful banners displayed on light poles along Garnet Ave. and Mission Blvd. and over 400 newly planted trees were coordinated by Discover Pacific Beach. The whimsical public art on Grand Avenue was dedicated in November 2002 and was a project between Discover PB and the Commission for arts & Culture. This web site comes to you from Discover Pacific Beach and was funded by a grant from the County of San Diego.
Discover Pacific Beach and the PB Town Council are comprised of volunteer directors and officers, voted on during annual elections.
The Pacific Beach Town Council was established in 1953 and initiated projects such as the "Terrific Pacific" tile mural installed on the Grand Avenue lifeguard tower. Directors lead annual events including a P.A.E.S.A.N. (Police and Emergency Services Appreciation Night) barbecue, and a Concert on the Green, regular "Sundowner" mixers and public meetings.
The two non-profits joined forces in 1998 to produce Pacific BeachFest an annual event held in October that is a free, family-friendly festival on the beach and boardwalk. Visitors can enjoy a Taste of Pacific Beach Food Court, live music, water competitions, arts & crafts and fireworks.
The Pacific Beach Community Planning Committee invested several years updating the 1983 Pacific Beach Community Plan. Traffic flows, view corridors, street landscaping and retaining PBs community flavor are highlighted. The Pacific Beach community Planning Committee continues to monitor new developments and changes to existing structures, ensuring that the plan is followed.
Pacific Beach is fortunate to host the PB Lions, PB Kiwanis and PB Rotary Clubs. Each group meets weekly for lunch at local dining establishments. The PB Soroptimists, PB Garden Club and PB Woman's Club meet monthly to coordinate activities helpful to PB.
The schools in the neighborhood boast thriving P.T.A.s, actively involved in site improvements, programs and events.
The Friends of Pacific Beach Library and the Pacific Beach Recreation Council likewise are volunteer organizations providing supplemental amenities for their respective facilities and programs.
Today, thousands of volunteers offer their time, talent and personal funds to improve Pacific Beach-just as they have since 1887.
What is the PB Personality?
Although Pacific Beach is a Mecca for nightlife, known throughout the country and beyond, the coffee houses, nightclubs, and late-night restaurants are clustered mainly along Garnet Avenue and Mission Boulevard, close to the beach. Within blocks, though, a quieter PB emerges.
Small town, casual, friendly, laid-back and eclectic are commonly applied descriptions. Walk into the local bank, where customers wear shorts, jeans, dresses (from mini to muumuu)-and occasionally, even a suit.
Mom-and-pop businesses abound. Of the 1,200 businesses found in Pacific Beach approximately 75% are locally owned. Everybody walks (or bicycles, skateboards, or inline-skates) around the beach. People tend to be athletic and sports-minded, outspoken and quick to laugh.
Just as the literature claimed in 1887, we enjoy the ocean breezes (and much less fog than our neighbors to the north.) Our residents-an even division of college students, singles, families, retired folks and couples of all ages-live in equally varied housing. Tiny beach cottages alternate with a wide range of condos and apartments on the "flats," while larger bungalows on Crown Point and PBs northern half lead to hillside homes with incomparable views.
Ride up to Kate Sessions Park on the top of Lamont Street and look down over PB. It's green now, filled in with houses and landscaping. The realtors were right: "The magnificent beach, the bay . An elevated site overlooking the mountains and bay in full view of San Diego City."
Pacific Beach
San Diego's most popular beach community,
for good reason.
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